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Showing posts with label Battery Charger. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Battery Charger. Show all posts

Saturday, September 9, 2017

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Simple Solar charger circuit project using transistors

A very simple solar charger circuit project can be designed using few external electronic parts . This simple solar charger circuit is capable of handling charge currents of up to 1A. Alternate component values are given in the figure for lower current applications.

Circuit diagram:

 Solar charger circuit project using transistors circuit diagram

The only adjustment is the voltage trip point when the current is shunted through the transistor and load resistor. This should be set with a fully charged battery. As the transistor and R3 have the entire panel’s output across them when the battery is fully charged, all of the current from the panel will be going through R3 and the Darlington transistor TIP112, so these must be well heat sunk. Adjust R1 for the trip point, usually 14.4 V – 15 V for a 12 V SLA or a 12 V Ni-Cd battery.


Friday, June 30, 2017

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Automatic 9-volt Battery Charger

Good care given to your NiCad batteries will ensure a long life. However, they do need to be handled and charged with special care. It is therefore important to first discharge the NiCad to 1 Volt per cell, ensure that the battery is discharged, and then start the charge cycle.

recommend a charge current of 1/10th the capacity for a duration of about 15 hours uninterrupted. In reality, we learn some hard lessons when we forget to switch the charger off after the 15 hours and find that one or more cells inside the battery no longer accept a charge. That is the very reason that the circuit above is fully automated.The only thing to do is connect the battery and press the 'Start' button. When the discharge cycle is finished the circuit switches over to charge for 15 hours. After
the 15 hours the circuits maintains a trickle charge to keep the battery 'topped-up

Automatic 9-volt Battery Charger

Before I go into the schematic details I like to explain some of the component descriptions in the schematic. Jan Hamer lives in the Netherlands and so the circuit details are based on european standards. 120E, 150E, etc. The 'E' just stands for Ohms so 120 ohm, 150 ohm. The original circuit specified the HEF type of cmos IC's which are not readily available in most of Canada. So just get any other type of CMOS chip like the MC4011, MC4020, MC4047 from Motorola. Any other type will do fine too. The BC548B is replaceble by a NTE123AP (NOTE: make sure it is the 'AP' type, the regular NTE123A is a total different transistor), ECG123AP, and the 2N3904 will work also.

Watch for the correct pin locations since the BCE may be reversed with this european type. The LM317T is a TO-220 type and replaceble with a ECG956 or NTE956. The LM339N can be replaced with a ECG834 or NTE834

Although this circuit looks quite impressive and maybe a bit difficult it is certainly not difficult to understand. The circuit needs to be hooked-up to a DC supply voltage of between 16.5 and max 17.5 volt, otherwise the CMOS IC's will go defective. Because I didn't feel like to design a seperate powersupply for this circuit

I connected it to my fully adjustable bench top power supply. First we connect a 'to-be-charged' 9-volt nicad battery to the appropriate connections. Then hook it up to the powersupply. Upon connection the 1nF capacitor starts up the two RS Flip-Flops formed by IC1a, IC1b, IC1c, IC1d, and pulls pins 3 and 10 'high' and pins 4 and 11 'low'. The clock pulses are created by the free- running multivibrator IC4. IC4's frequency is determined by the 10uF capacitors, the 220K resistor and the 100K trimpot. The clock runs continuesly but the counter behind, IC5, is not counting yet because pin 11 (the master-reset) is kept high. When the 'START' button is pressed, output pin 4 from IC1a goes high
and biases TR4, which is made visible by the Red LED (D9) which remains lit. The NiCad is now being discharged via this transistor and the 100 ohm resistor.

The 10K trimpot (at the right of the diagram) is adjusted in such a way that when the battery voltage dips below 7 volt, the output of IC3 goes LOW and the output pin 11 of IC1a HIGH. At hte same time the output pin 10 of IC1d goes LOW, and the red LED turns off.

Because output pin 11 went HIGH the green LED (D8) lights up and at the same time the voltage level rises causing the battery to be charged. The charge- current is determined by the 120 ohm, 150 ohm, and the trimpot of 1K, at the right side of IC2. Actually we could have used one resistor, but the output voltage of different brands for IC2 may differ, by about 1.25 volt. Because the charging current is devided by value of the resistors, with the trimpot the current can be adjusted to the correct value of your own 9-volt NiCad. (In my case, the battery is a 140 mA type, so the charge current should be adjusted for 14 mA (c/0.1).

At the same time the LOW of output pin 10 from IC1d starts the counter of the clock. On pin 9 of IC5 appear pulses which light up the red LED. This is implemented for two reasons, the clock-frequency can, with the 100K trimpot, be adjusted to the correct value; the red LED has to come ON for 6.59 seconds and for the same duration going OFF and except for that fact the green LED, who indicates the charge current, can be checked if the total charge-time is correct.

When the counter has reached 8192 pulses ( x 6.59 = 53985.28 sec = 14.99 hours) the output pin 3 of IC5 goes high again, transistor Tr1 activates and resets the two flip-flops to the start position.

The charging process stops and goes over to trickle charge via the 10K resistor and the D2 diode and keeps the battery topped-up.

The adjustments of the project are really very simple and nothing to worry about. Turn the walker of the 10K pot in the direction of the 12K resistor, ground connection point of 10K resistor/diode D2, like the adjustment pin of IC2, apply a voltage of 7-volt to the battery connection terminals, switch the power ON and slowly turn the pot backward until the greeen LED starts to light up. Switch OFF the power and take away the connections you made to make the adjustment.

Insert an amp-meter between the battery and the output connection and again switch the power ON. The battery will, in case it is not completely empty, totally discharged (to a safe level) and as soon as the 7 volt margin is reached goes over to the charge cycle. The charge current is at this time adjusted via the 1K trimpot (which is connected in series with the 150 Ohm resistor and in parallel with the 120 ohm resistor) accurately to the desired value.

Addendum: It is strongly recommended to include small 100nF ceramic capacitors over the powersupply lines feeding EACH CMOS IC to keep possible  interference to a negliable value.

Jan Hamer 


Copyright © 1995 - 2001 Tony van Roon


Monday, November 2, 2015

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Bicycle USB Charger Circuit Diagram

This circuit has been developed to add a USB charging port to a bicycle for charging a mobile phone. The input supply for the circuit is produced by a dynamo (6V, 3W dynamo) in the bicycle. The circuit uses few components, which help in keeping the size, weight and cost of the unit down.

Circuit and working
The circuit is based on LM2596-5.0 (IC1). Its configuration, with minor changes, generally reflects the recommendations included in Texas Instruments’ datasheet of LM2596-5.0. The IC provides all active functions for a step-down (buck) switching regulator, capable of driving a 3A load with excellent line and load regulation.

The output of the regulator is 5V. It operates at a switching frequency of 150kHz, thus allowing smaller-sized filter components than what would be needed with traditional lower-frequency switching regulators. Fig. 1 shows the circuit diagram of the bicycle USB charger.

Bicycle USB Charger Circuit Diagram
Fig. 1: Circuit diagram of the bicycle USB charger
  
The alternating voltage generated by the dynamo is converted to DC by a full-wave bridge rectifier comprising Schottky barrier rectifier diodes D1 through D4 and a filtering electrolytic capacitor (C1). The output of the bridge rectifier, which is charged to peak value of AC voltage (nearly 10V), is input to switching regulator LM2596-5.0 to provide a regulated 5V (DC) output, which is suitable for charging mobile devices using the USB connector.

The 5mm LED (LED1) in the circuit indicates output status. Feedback connection FB (pin 4 on IC1) is connected directly to output voltage at electrolytic capacitor C2. As with all switching regulators, C2 should have a low ESR (equivalent series resistance) rating. Besides, 33μH inductor (L1) should be rated for a DC current of at least 1A. The dynamo output is connected to the circuit by switch S1.

Construction and testing
An actual-size, single-side PCB of the bicycle USB charger is shown in Fig. 2 and its component layout in Fig. 3. Assemble the circuit on the PCB in such a way that you can connect the mobile phone through a USB connector.

Fig. 2: Actual-size PCB layout of the bicycle USB charger


Fig. 3: Component layout of the PCB

LM2596 (IC1) is available in a standard TO-220 package as well as in a surface mount TO-263 package. The PCB layout is for TO-220 package. The whole circuit can be easily constructed even on a perforated prototyping board. The USB output is soldered directly in the prototyping board. However, it is very important to observe correct polarity when connecting the USB output socket. After construction and testing, enclose the unit in a suitable ABS/acrylic box.

Sourced By : EFY. Author T.K. Hareendran


Wednesday, December 24, 2014

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Battery-Discharge Measurement Circuit Diagram

Battery-life measurement for a portable system is a time-consuming task and many methods used for it do not give reliable results. Presented here is a circuit using which you can measure the battery-life very easily. Here, an analogue clock tracks the discharge time of the battery used in battery-powered portable devices.

Circuit and working
The circuit for battery-discharge measurement is shown in Fig. 1. It is built using low-power single-/dual-supply comparator MAX921 (IC1), MOSFET VN0300L (IRF1), an analogue clock and a few other components.

IC1 monitors the life of the BUT (battery under test) and controls the power supply for the analogue clock. When the BUT voltage falls below the threshold value set by VR1, IC1’s output becomes low, which turns off MOSFET IRF1. This means, power supply for the analogue clock is cut off and so the clock stops running. The reading on the clock at this point gives the discharge time of the BUT, provided you had set the clock to 12:00 before testing started. The circuit can test 2.5V to 11V batteries.


Fig. 1: Circuit diagram for battery-discharge measurement



Fig. 2: An actual-size PCB pattern for the circuit


Fig. 3: Component layout for the PCB

Construction and testing
 An actual-size, single-side PCB for the circuit is shown in Fig. 2 and its component layout in Fig. 3. After assembling the circuit on PCB, enclose it in a suitable plastic box. Connect positive terminal of the analogue clock to positive terminal of a 1.5V AA-size battery and negative terminal to the drain of MOSFET IRF1. Before using the circuit, verify that voltages at the test points are as per table.




For setting the threshold voltage, you need a variable DC power supply at CON1. For example, to measure the discharge time of a 6V battery (BUT), first decide its minimum threshold voltage, say 4.5V. Connect variable supply to CON1 and set it to 4.5V. Vary VR1 till the clock stops running. Now, remove the variable power supply, set the clock to 12:00 and connect the 6V battery at CON1. Connect the load across the battery. As the battery power is being consumed by the load, voltage level begins to drop. When BUT voltage drops below 4.5V, the clock stops running. The time shown on the analogue clock at this point is the discharge time.




Sourced By: EFY: Author : Bhaskar Pandey


Tuesday, December 16, 2014

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Monitor for 6V/12V Batteries

Rechargeable batteries of 6V and 12V are used in a large number of applications. It is imperative that these are maintained properly to get maximum life out of them. Further, their permissible number of charge-discharge cycles must be fully utilised. Here is a circuit that gives a visual as well as an audible alarm if the battery voltage is higher or lower than acceptable limits, so that corrective action can be taken.



Circuit and working
As shown in Fig. 1, the circuit is built around dual-operational amplifier LM358 (IC1), hex inverting Schmitt trigger 74HC14 (IC2) and a few other components. The circuit can be divided into two parts—the input unit built around two operational amplifiers (op amps) in IC1 working as comparators, and audio alarm unit built around two RC oscillators and a transistor.




Voltage from the battery under test (BUT) is applied to connector CON1. It is divided by five by R1 and R2 for comparison with the threshold levels. the power supply of the circuit is limited to 5V ±2%. SPDT switches S1 and S2 simultaneously select between the preset threshold for 6V and 12V rechargeable batteries. potentiometers VR1 and VR2 set the highest allowable input voltage. For example, for a 12V battery, if you wish to activate the visual and audio alarms at 14.5V, you should set the potentiometer VR2 reference voltage to 14.5V/5 = 2.9V.

Potentiometers VR3 and VR4 set the lowest allowable input voltage. For example, for a 12V battery, if you wish to activate the visual and audio alarms at 10.8V, you should set the potentiometer VR4 reference voltage to 10.8V/5 = 2.16V. Similarly, you can obtain the reference voltages for a 6V battery by setting potentiometers VR1 and VR3.

When the input voltage is above the threshold set by potentiometers VR1 or VR2, the output at pin OUT1 of IC1 becomes low and the LED2 indicating a high voltage switches on. The output of gate N1 of IC2 becomes high and the RC oscillator built around gate N2 oscillates. The output, which is a square wave with frequency of approximately 1kHz, is amplified by gate N3 and transistor T1 and reproduced by the headphone loudspeaker (LS1) or an earphone. The frequency of the RC oscillator built around gate N2 can be set with the help of resistor R7 and capacitor C2 to an appropriate value.

When the input voltage is below the threshold set by VR3 or VR4, the output at pin OUT2 of IC1 becomes high. The output of gate N4 becomes low and the LED3 indicating a low voltage switches on. The RC oscillator built around gate N5 starts working. The produced square wave signal with frequency of around 1kHz is amplified by gate N6 and transistor T1 and reproduced by the headphone loudspeaker (LS1) or an earphone. The frequency of the RC oscillator built around gate N5 can be set with resistor R8 and capacitor C3 to an appropriate value.


Circuit diagram of monitor for 6V/12V batteries

Fig. 1: Circuit diagram of monitor for 6V/12V batteries


Actual-size PCB layout for the monitor circuit

Fig. 2: Actual-size PCB layout for the monitor circuit


Component layout for the PCB

Fig. 3: Component layout for the PCB

When the input signal is within the range set by the selected potentiometers, both the oscillators do not work, and there is no sound from the loudspeaker and the LEDs LED2 and LED3 remain off.

Power supply for the circuit may be derived from 78L/M/05 (not shown) with 5V and ±2 per cent tolerance and connected at CON2. LED1 is the power indicator.

Construction and testing
An actual-size, single-side PCB for the voltage monitor for 6V/12V batteries is shown in Fig. 2 and its component layout in Fig. 3. After assembling the circuit on a PCB, enclose it in a suitable plastic box.
Fix CON1 on the front side of the case for connecting the battery under test (BUT). Fix CON2 on the rear side of the box for connecting a 5V power supply to the circuit.

Before use, check that voltages at the test points are as per the table.




Sourced BY: EFY Author Name:  Petre Tzv Petrov


Monday, December 1, 2014

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Nicad Battery Tester Circuit Diagram

This is the simple Nicad Battery Tester Circuit Diagram.This battery tester produces Nicad battery test at a speed of 500 mA. When an endpoint 1 V (defined by the setting of R3) is resolved, pin 2 of U2 becomes low, deactivating Ql and disconnecting the test battery from the circuit. Power for U3 comes from the 12-V regulator in series with the battery being tested. 

 Nicad Battery Tester Circuit Diagram


Nicad Battery Tester Circuit Diagram


A clock or timer can be plugged into SI to indicate the time it takes to discharge the battery under test.


Wednesday, October 22, 2014

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Ni-cad battery zapper Circuit Diagram

This is the simple Ni-cad battery zapper Circuit Diagram. This circuit is used to clear internal shorts in nickel cadmium batteries. To operate, connect ni-cad to output and press the pushbutton for three seconds.

Ni-cad battery zapper Circuit Diagram


Ni-cad battery zapper Circuit Diagram



Tuesday, October 7, 2014

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Simple Battery operated emergency light Circuit Diagram

This is the Simple Battery operated emergency light Circuit Diagram. This simple circuit providers battery operated emergency lighting instantaneously upon failure of the regular ac service. When line power is restored, the emergency light turns off and the battery recharges automatically. 

Simple Battery operated emergency light Circuit Diagram


Simple Battery operated emergency light Circuit Diagram
 

The circuit is ideal for use in elevator cars, corridors and similar places where loss of light due to power failure would be undesirable. Completely static in operation, the circuit requires no maintenance. With ac power on, capacitor CI charges through rectifier CRI and resistor Rl to develop a negative voltage at the gate of the C106Y SCR . By this means, the SCR is prevented from being triggered, and the emergency light stays off. At the same time, the battery is kept fully charged by rectifier CR2 and resistor R2. 

Should the ac power fail, CI discharges and the SCR is triggered on by battery power through resistor R3. The SCR then energizes the emergency light. Reset is automatic when ac is restored, because the peak ac line voltage biases the SCR and turns it off.


Friday, October 3, 2014

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Simple 12 Vdc Battery Operated 120 Vac Power source Circuit Diagram

This is the Simple 12 Vdc Battery Operated 120 Vac Power source Circuit Diagram. This simple 120 V: 24 V, center-tapped control transformer and four additional components can do the job. This circuit outputs a clean 200 V pk-pk square wave at 60 Hz and can supply up to 20 W. The circuit is self-starting and free-running. If Q1 is faster and has a higher gain than Q2, it will tum on first when you apply the input power and will hold Q2 off. 

 Simple 12 Vdc Battery Operated 120 Vac Power source Circuit Diagram


Simple 12 Vdc Battery Operated 120 Vac Power source Circuit Diagram

Load current and transformer magnetizing current then flows in the upper half of the primary winding, and auto transformer action supplies the base drive until the transformer saturates. When that action occurs, Q1 loses its base drive. As it turns off, the transformer voltages reverse, turning Q2 on and repeating the cycle. The output frequency depends on the transformer iron and input voltage, but not on the load. 

The frequency will generally range between 50 to 60 Hz with a 60-Hz transformer and car battery or equivalent source. The output voltage depends on turns ratio and the difference between input voltage and transistor saturation voltage. For higher power, use larger transformers and transistors. This type of inverter normally is used in radios, phonographs, hand tools, shavers, and small fluorescent lamps. It will not work with reactive loads (motors) or loads with high inrush currents, such as coffee pots, frying pans, and heaters.


Tuesday, March 4, 2014

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Simple Mobile Phone Battery Charger

Mobile phone chargers available in the market are quite expensive. The circuit presented here comes as a low-cost alternative to charge mobile telephones/battery packs with a rating of 7.2 volts, such as Nokia 6110/6150.

 Circuit diagram:

Mobile Phone Battery Charger Circuit Diagram

 Parts

R1 = 1K
R2 = 47R
R3 = 10R
R4 = 47R
C1 = 1000uF-25V
D1 = LEDs any color
D2 = LEDs any color
D3 = LEDs any color
D4 = 1N4007
D5 = 1N4007
IC1 = LM7806
T1 = 9VAC Xformer 250mA
BR1 = Diode bridge 1A

Circuit Operation:

The 220-240V AC mains supply is down-converted to 9V AC by transformer T1. The transformer output is rectified by BR1 and the positive DC supply is directly connected to the charger’s output contact, while the negative terminal is connected through current limiting resistor R2. D2 works as a power indicator with R1 serving as the current limiter and D3 indicates the charging status. During the charging period, about 3 volts drop occurs across R2, which turns on D3 through R3.

An external DC supply source (for instance, from a vehicle battery) can also be used to energies the charger, where R4, after polarity protection diode D5, limits the input current to a safe value. The 3-terminal positive voltage regulator LM7806 (IC1) provides a constant voltage output of 7.8V DC since D1 connected between the common terminal (pin 2) and ground rail of IC1 raises the output voltage to 7.8V DC. D1 also serves as a power indicator for the external DC supply. After constructing the circuit on a veroboard, enclose it in a suitable cabinet. A small heat sink is recommended for IC1.


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Simple Train Mounted Camera Battery Charger

Simple Train Mounted Camera Battery Charger circuit will keep the battery for a train mounted camera charged and will shut the camera off after a few seconds when power is no longer applied to the track. The circuit is designed for DCC systems and the battery is essentially used as a capacitor as it is not allowed to become discharged. The battery also controls the voltage to the camera as any current passed through R1 that is not needed by the camera is shunted through the battery. This is an inefficient but cheap way to control the voltage. 





Monday, February 24, 2014

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Simple Car Battery Voltage Monitor Circuit

Simple Car Battery Voltage Monitor Circuit diagramThis circuit is used to monitor the battery voltage to display a dual-colored LED status of the battery to. If the LED “green”battery voltage exceeds 11.9 volts. If the yellow LED, battery voltage 11.9 to 11.5 volts. If the LED is “red” If the battery voltage below 11.5 volts. You can of course change the trigger points by the trimmer resistors and / or changing the value of the resistors in the divider.

A dual op amp is used as a comparator. The green LED on the board, until the voltage exceeds 11.5 volts. The red LED illuminates when the voltage falls below 11.9 volts to the circuit. Therefore, in the 11.9 to 11.5 volts, both LEDs are on, producing a slightly yellow color. When the voltage falls below 11.5 V, the green LED, and now only the red LED flashes to indicate low voltage.

Parts List
R1=1K2
R2-3-4=680R
R5=15K
R6=10K
R7-8-9-10=1K
IC1=LM324
D1=5V6 /0.5W Zener
D2-3-4-5=LED
RV1=10K trimmer

 Is recommended that multi-shaper for V1 and V2. Muti-trimmer makes it much easier to trigger points to make as a less expensive single-turn trimmer. The trimmer can be completely eliminated if you have access to a range of 1% resistors and has had calculated carefully. You would also want to provide more accurate reference voltage as the common 78L05 regulator.


Wednesday, February 19, 2014

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How Build a Solar Charger use IC LM317

 At this point is a Solar Charger Circuit to is used to charge information Acid otherwise Ni-album batteries using the solar energy power. The circuit harvests solar energy to charge a 6 volt 4.5 Ah rechargeable battery in favor of various applications. The stallion has Voltage and Current supervision and terminated voltage restrict sour facilities.

Circuit uses a 12 volt solar panel and a changeable voltage supervisor IC LM 317. The solar panel consists of solar cells each one rated on 1.2 volts. 12 volt DC is presented from the panel to charge the battery. Charging current passes through D1 to the voltage watchdog IC LM 317. By adjusting its Adjust pin, output voltage and current can subsist regulated.

How Build a Solar Charger use IC LM317
VR is placed amid the adjust pin and ground to provide an output voltage of 9 volts to the battery. Resistor R3 confine the charging current and diode D2 prevents discharge of current from the battery. Transistor T1 and Zener diode ZD conduct yourself having the status of a stop rotten switch at what time the battery is ample. Normally T1 is rancid and battery gets charging current.
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After the terminal voltage of the battery rises over 6.8 volts, Zener conducts and provides station current to T1. It followed by turns on education the output of LM 317 to prevent charging. If you want to specific voltage / current output , you can replacing ZD on the circuit above.



Saturday, February 8, 2014

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Simple L200 Charger Circuit

This circuit came about as the result of an  urgent need for a NiMH battery charger. No  suitable dedicated IC being immediately to  hand, the author pressed an L200 regulator and a 4.7 kΩ NTC thermistor into service.  Those components were enough to form the  basis of a charger with a cut-of f condition  based on cell temperature rise rather than  relying on the more common negative delta-V detection.

Simple L200 Charger Circuit Diagram :

L200-Charger-Circuit Diagram
The circuit uses the L200 with the thermistor in the feedback loop. When ‘cold’ the  output volt age of the regulator is about 1.55 V per cell; when ‘warm’, at a cell temperature of about 35 °C to 40 °C, the out-put voltage is about 1.45 V per cell and the  thermistor has a resistance of about 3.3 kΩ.  This temperature sensing is enough to pre-vent the cells from being overcharged. P1  adjusts the charging voltage, and R2 limits  the charge current to 320 mA. The IC is fitted with a small 20 K/W heatsink as it dissipates around 1.2 watts in use.

The charger circuit can be connected permanently to the battery pa ck . Charging  starts when a ‘ wall wart ’ adaptor is connected to the input of the charger. The unregulated 12 V supply used by the author  delivered an open- circuit voltage of 18 V,  dropping to 14 V under load. Even though  the charge voltage is reduced when charging is complete, the cells should not be left  permanently on charge.

The author uses the circuit to charge the battery in a torch. After three years and some 150  charge cycles the cells are showing no signs of losing any capacity.


Saturday, February 1, 2014

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LM317 to create constant current of 2mA?

I have a circuit where I want to have a constant current of 2mA through a variable resistor. I've been told that I could probably use a LM317 as a current regulator, with one resistor on the ouput. But I've read some places that the LM317 takes minimum 5-10mA load to function correctly.

How can I achieve a constant current output of 2mA when I don't know the resistance of the variable resistor?

The input voltage is about 2.755V. Output voltage doesn't matter, just the current.


Here's an image to my feeble attempt at a schematic:



enter image description here




The LM317 with the single series resistor between output and adjust input is actually a fixed current source, not a current limiter. You don't need the LM317 to create a current limiter, a few discrete components will do:
enter image description here
For a limiting at 2mA you select a 330Ω resistor for RSENSE. If there flows 2mA through it Q2 will start to conduct and reduce the base voltage of Q1, so that its current is cut off.
edit (re changed question)

Maybe you're focusing too much on the LM317. If you need a constant current you could use the LM234 which is a programmable current source for up to 10mA. You set the current with a resistor.


Friday, January 31, 2014

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12V Car Charger For ASUS Eee Notebook

The ASUS Eee is a fantastic ultra-portable notebook with almost everything required for geeks (and nothing that isn’t). Plus it features fantastic build quality and is very well priced. If you live in New Zealand you can get them from DSE; at the time of writing they are the exclusive supplier. I worked out it’s the same cost as importing one once you include all the duties and tax, plus you get the advantage of a proper NZ-style mains charger. Anyway, being so small I thought it would be nice to be able to carry this around in the car. Unfortunately I couldn’t find a car charger available anywhere at the time so I decided to tackle the problem myself. As a bonus this provides an opportunity for an external high-capacity battery.

Commercial Equivalent:
I thought at this stage it would be worth noting that a commercial car charger is now available for less than it cost me to build this from Expansys and is available in most countries (select your location on their site). It outputs 9.5v from 10-18v in at up to 2.5A. I’d actually recommend it over the design here is it seems to perform better at lower voltages (that one works down to 10V). However I have kept this page up as a reference for those who enjoy tinkering.

Design:
The charger included with the Eee is rated at 9.5v, 2.315A. There isn’t a fixed voltage regulator available for this exact voltage, so the circuit needed to be designed around an adjustable regulator. I decided to design the charger around the LM2576 “Simple Switcher” IC from National Semiconductor. There are tons of ICs like this available, many of which are a bit more efficient, however I selected this one because it is readily available and relatively cheap. It also has a lower drop-out voltage (~2V) than many other chips I looked at which is important when powering the device from a car or 12v SLA battery.

www.streampowers.blogspot.comThis circuit could have used a standard three pin regulator IC such as the LM317, however most types require an external transistor when handling so much current and not to mention the fact that they are very inefficient; they draw the same amount of current from the input as the load and the difference in power is dissipated as heat. The main problem with using the LM2576 is the fact it needs quite a large inductor due to its somewhat low switching frequency. The inductor I used is made by Pulse Engineering, part number PE92108KNL. I’d prefer a smaller one, however I couldn’t find one capable of supplying the required current that I could purchase in single units. Besides the PE92108KNL is apparently designed specifically to work with the LM257x series.

The circuit also includes a low voltage cut-out based on a 9.1v Zener diode and BC337 transistor that will shut down the regulator if the input voltage is below 11.5V. This prevents unstable operation of the regulator at lower input voltages, and also helps prevent accidental flattening of the supply battery. Substituting this transistor for similar type may affect the cut-out voltage; the Vbe of the transistor should be 1.2v.All of the components used should be pretty readily available in most areas. I got everything from Farnell. Jaycar also sells everything except the inductor. Make sure you specify high temperature, low ESR capacitors as these help result in more stable operation and better efficiency of the charger.

Unfortunately the end result is a charger that is slightly bulkier than I would really like. I attempted to fit this inside an old mobile phone charger case so the whole thing could hang out of the cigarette lighter, however I ran into trouble making the circuit stable enough and dissipating all the heat. Due to the high current involved compared to a mobile phone charger the components are much bulkier so it’s pretty tricky to get all to fit! If I do get it finished I’ll add an update.

Parts List:
  • 2x 10k resistor (R1 & R4)
  • 2x 22k resistor (R2 & R3)
  • 1x 1.5k resistor (R5)
  • 1x 120μF 25v electrolytic capacitor (C1)
  • 1x 2200μF 16v electrolytic capacitor (C2)
  • 1x 1N5822 Schottky diode (or equivalent)
  • 1x 9.1v 0.5W Zener diode
  • 1x BC337 NPN transistor
  • 1x LM2576T-ADJ IC
  • 1x 100uH, 3A inductor (e.g. Pulse PE92108KNL)
  • 25°C/W or better minature heatsink (e.g. Thermalloy 6073)
  • Cigarette lighter plug with 3A fuse and 2.1mm DC plug (e.g. DSE P1692)
  • 2.1mm DC chassis mount socket
  • 1.7mm x 4.75mm (ID x OD) DC plug and cable
  • Small plastic enclosure
Building It:
Make yourself a PCB using the template below (600dpi). I simply laser print (or photocopy) the design onto OHP transparency sheet and then transfer the toner onto a blank PCB using a standard clothes iron. Any missing spots can be touched up with a permanent marker before etching. This is quick, usually results in pretty tidy boards and hardly costs a thing. There is a tutorial on a variation of this method at http://max8888.orcon.net.nz/pcbs.htm.
Install the components on the PCB and triple check the layout before soldering. It is much easier to start with the low profile components such as resistors and diodes, then install the larger components after-wards. Don’t forget the wire link; this is shows as a red line on the layout guide above. Remember to smear a small amount of heatsink compound on the regulator tab before mounting the heatsink.

For a case I used a small plastic enclosure from DSE, part H2840, as it was all the local store had in stock that was remotely suitable. The PCB is designed to fit into this particular case, however any small box should be suitable. If you have a dead laptop charger lying about it might be worth ripping the guts out of that and salvaging the case. If your enclosure is different you may need to modify the design to suit, so I have provided the schematic and PCB design files for download. They were created using Eagle. The Eee uses a standard 1.7mm DC power connector with a positive tip.
Testing:
Connect the circuit to a 12v supply. If you use a car or lead acid battery ensure you have a 3A fuse fitted in line with the circuit before connecting it, just in case. Use your multimeter to check that the circuit outputs about 9.45v with no load. Connect a 12V, 21W lamp (e.g. old brake lamp from a car) or similar load across the output and check that the voltage doesn’t vary much. You should now be able to connect your Eee. The circuit design should be good for up to 2.5A, so there is plenty of margin for the Eee to fully function and charge its own battery off this supply.

 
SLA Battery Carry-bag:
Jaycar have a really cool carry bag with a shoulder strap designed to perfectly fit a 12v 7AH sealed lead acid battery. The bag features a fused cigarette lighter socket and is the perfect compliment to this charger. It works well with the Eee and provides hours of extra use. The shoulder strap means it’s not too bothersome to carry about and the charger circuit itself zips up neatly inside the bag. The under-voltage cut-off means the battery will never run completely flat, and the Eee will simply cut over to its internal battery once the SLA runs out. I got my SLA battery from Rexel as they are much cheaper (approx NZ$18 including GST last time I bought one) and they don’t sit as long on the shelf as many other suppliers.

 
Disclaimer:
This circuit is intended for people who have had experience in constructing electronic projects before. The circuit design and build process are provided simply as a reference for other people to use and I take no responsibility for how they are used. If you proceed with building and/or using this design you do so entirely at your own risk. You are free to use the content on this page as you wish, however I do ask that you include a link or reference back to this page if you distribute or publish any of the content to others. 



Source: Marlborough Wi-Fi


Thursday, January 9, 2014

0

24V 7Ah Lead Acid Battery Charger

This lead acid battery charger circuit is designed in response to a request from Mr.Devdas .C. His requirement was a circuit to charge two 12V/7AH lead acid batteries in series. Anyway he did not mentioned the no of cells per each 12V battery. The no of cells/battery is also an important parameter and here I designed the circuit assuming each 12V battery containing 6 cells. When two batteries are connected in series, the voltage will add up and the current capacity remains same. So two 12V/7AH batteries connected in series can be considered as a 24V/7AH battery.

24V 7Ah Lead Acid Battery Charger
The circuit given here is a current limited lead acid battery charger built around the famous variable voltage regulator IC LM 317. The charging current depends on the value of resistor R2 and here it is set to be 700mA. Resistor R3 and POT R4 determines the charging voltage. Transformer T1 steps down the mains voltage and bridge D1 does the job of rectification. C1 is the filter capacitor. Diode D1 prevents the reverse flow of current from the battery when charger is switched OFF or when mains power is not available.

Notes.
  1. Assemble the circuit on a good quality PCB.
  2. T1 can be a 230V primary, 35V/3A secondary step down transformer.
  3. If 3A Bridge is not available, make one using four 1N5003 diodes.
  4. LM317 must be fitted with a heat sink.
  5. R2 = 0.85 ohm is not a standard value. You can obtain it by combining a 6.2 ohm and 1 ohm resistors in parallel.
  6. F1 can be a 2A fuse.
  7. To setup the charging voltage, power ON the charger and hook up a voltmeter across the output terminals and adjust R4 to make the voltmeter read 28V. Now the charger is ready and you can connect the batteries.
  8. This charger is specifically designed for two 12V/7AH/6 cell lead acid batteries in series OR a 24V/7AH/12 cell lead acid battery.




Saturday, January 4, 2014

0

12V Powered 12V Lead Acid Battery Charger with Indicator

Some of you might wonder why a charger is needed at all, to charge a 12 Volt battery from a 12 Volt source! Well, firstly the "12 Volt" source will typically vary anywhere from 11 Volt to 15 Volt, and then a battery needs a controlled charge current and voltage, which cannot result from connecting it directly to a voltage source. The charger described here is intended for charging small 12 Volt lead acid batteries, such as the gelled or AGM batteries of capacities between about 2 and 10 Ah, using a car's electrical system as power source, regardless of whether the car engine is running or not. I built this charger many years ago, I think I was still in school back then. On request of a reader of my web site, I'm publishing it now, despite being a rather crude circuit.

12V Powered 12V Lead Acid Battery Charger with Indicator
It works, it is uncritical to build, and uses only easy-to-find parts, so it has something in its favor. The downside is mainly the low efficiency: This charger wastes about as much power as it puts into the battery. The charger consists of two stages: The first is a capacitive voltage doubler, which uses a 555 timer IC driving a pair of transistors connected as emitter followers, which in turn drive the voltage doubler proper. The doubler has power resistors built in, which limit the charging current. The second stage is a voltage regulator, using a 7815 regulator IC. Its output is applied to the battery via a diode, which prevents reverse current and also lowers the voltage a bit.

12V Powered 12V Lead Acid Battery Charger with Indicator
The resulting charge voltage is about 14.4V, which is fine for charging a gelled or AGM battery to full charge, but is too high as a trickle charger, so don't leave this charger permanently connected to a battery. If you would like to do just that, then add a second diode in series with D3! There is a LED connected as a charge indicator. It will light when the charge current is higher than about 150mA. The maximum charge current will be roughly 400mA. There is an auxiliary output, that provides about 20V at no load (depending on input voltage), and comes down as the load increases. I included this for charging 12V, 4Ah NiCd packs, which require just a limited current but not a limited voltage for charging.

12V Powered 12V Lead Acid Battery Charger with Indicator
Note that if the charge output is short-circuited, the overcurrent protection of U2 will kick in, but the current is still high enough to damage the diodes, if it lasts. So, don't short the output! If instead you short the auxiliary output, the fuse should blow. I built this charger into a little homemade aluminum sheet enclosure, using dead-bug construction style. Not very tidy, but it works. Note the long leads on the power resistors. They are necessary, because with shorter leads the resistors will unsolder themselves, as they get pretty hot! The transistors and the regulator IC are bolted to the case, which serves as heat sink. The transistors don't heat up very much, but the IC does.

Source: Homo Ludens


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